Remove the trigger guard latch, trigger return spring [43] and trigger link plunger [46].

The trigger guard latch assembly...

The factory trigger return spring is 11 lbs. I recommend a 8 lb spring. If the trigger is hesitant to reset, use a 10 lb spring.

The surface inside the trigger guard latch hole is often rough. Use a 1/4 inch drill bit to clean out chips and rough areas. Do not make the hole any deeper. Do not use a drill, turn the bit by hand.

Remove The Trigger

If you plan to install trigger shims and have not measured the gap beside the trigger, do so now. Refer back to the shims section for directions.

Use a paper clip to push out the trigger retaining pin [64].

With the trigger retaining pin removed, pull the trigger out.

Remove the trigger plunger [47] from the trigger.

Sand and polish the edges of the trigger where your finger makes contact. This is one spot where you can safely sand with more aggressive sandpaper if you wish to have a more rounded edge on your trigger.

Sand any rough edges on the trigger plunger. Polish the top and bottom of the pointed side where it makes contact with the cylinder latch [5].

Polish the top of the trigger cam surface where it mates with the hammer dog [66].

Remove The Cylinder Latch

Note - The cylinder latch spring [7] will try to launch during this procedure.

Place the trigger guard housing in a plastic bag or hold your finger over the cylinder latch spring. Carefully pull the cylinder latch [5] to the side and remove it.

The cylinder latch should be polished where it mates with the cylinder and trigger plunger [47].

The pawl [30] will drag on the frame as the trigger is pulled.

After the trigger is removed, polish the frame where the pawl drags. Do not remove too much metal. The surface does not need to be completely smooth. Just sand lightly to remove any rough spots. The bottom of the pawl where it drags on the frames can also be polished.